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In a small parish in south west London lies a grave — not just an ordinary headstone, but a mausoleum. Made from sandstone pleated into the shape of a Bedouin tent, and fronted with a large crucifix and a string of crescent moons, it is by far the strangest thing in the cemetery. It's even something of a local landmark: Mortlake’s answer to the Taj Mahal. Here lies Sir Richard Francis Burton, one of Victorian England's foremost explorers — and one of its most scandalous.
In his day, he was famous for charting Central Africa and writing books on geography, but also for converting to Islam, visiting male brothels and translating the Kama Sutra. Unsurprisingly, Burton often found himself at odds with the establishment. Her Majesty’s government didn’t take kindly to his antics, and as a diplomat he was often packed off to far-away colonial outposts. Some even argue that his burial in Mortlake is a form of exile, a post-mortem snub for a man who should have really been interred in Westminster Abbey, where many — not least his wife — felt he belonged, alongside other intrepid men-of-destiny like Ernest Shackleton and David Livingstone.
On a bright Monday morning, however, this site of exile and neglect is buzzing. Surveyors stalk the perimeter, looping tape around metal posts and passing down buckets from rope-pulleys, while a nearby group of school children clutch sketches and chalk reliefs of the tomb’s decorations and inscriptions. Abandoned to the elements since it was vandalised in the 1950s, today, the tomb is receiving the final touches of its makeover, a limestone wash overseen by charity Habitats & Heritage (H&H) and carried out by Cliveden Conservation.
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